Drunk Elephant A-Passioni retinol cream scientific breakdown

Drunk Elephant has released into the world of skincare a retinol cream the A-Passioni retinol cream. 

A-Passioni is the first vitamin A based product from Drunk Elephant. Let’s dive right into the formula break down. I will also review their Marula oil and two face moisturizers. 

Drunk Elephant did not play with this formula. It contains lots and lots of ingredient, but the real star is, of course, the retinol. 

Retinol

In this review, I’m not going to tell you all the wonders of vitamin A derivatives as it deserves a dedicated post. Retinol is a natural derivative of the active form of vitamin A known as retinoic acid. Our body uses retinol to transport vitamin A into the liver. In over the counter cosmetics retinol and retinal are the gold standard forms of vitamin A. 

The impact of retinol on your skin is fantastic:

-Smooth the skin

-Reduces wrinkles, 

-Diminish hyperpigmentation, 

-Partially reverse photodamage, 

-Helps your epidermis to produce new cells and increase the cell turnover in the epidermis 

-Firm the skin.

In cosmetics, retinol and retinal are reasonably the only molecules that act on collagen synthesis in the dermis. Vitamin A in Dermatology has been used for decades to treat acne. If you are acne prone retinol is a good option. 

The downside of retinol is that it degrades quickly upon light and oxygen exposure, irritates the skin and make your skin more sensitive to UVs. Your skin needs to adapt to retinoids for at least a month. The adaptation of your skin to retinoids is different between individuals. Of course, you have to wear sunscreen every single day. I strongly discourage you from using any forms of vitamin A without using a sunscreen (SP50+ and highest UVA factor protection) daily. 

Humectants 

Glycerin, trehalose, sodium hyaluronate crosspolymer, Glucosamine Hcl, bambusa Vulgaris Leaf/ Stem Extract (bamboo extract).

Emollients 

caprylic/capric triglyceride, cetearyl alcohol, passion fruit oil (Passiflora Edulis Seed Oil), jojoba oil (Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil), marula oil (Sclerocarya Birrea Seed Oil), apricot kernel oil, Cetyl Ethylhexanoate, avocado oil (Persea Gratissima Oil), omega 6 (linoleic acid), omega 3 (Linolenic Acid), ceramide 3 (ceramide NP), phytosphingosine, (a precursor of ceramids) phytosterol, jojoba esters, soybean oil (glycine soja oil), safflower seed oil (Carthamus Tinctorius Seed Oil), Cetyl Palmitate, olive oil (Olea Europaea Fruit Oil), 

Anti oxidants

Retinol, niacinamide (vitamin B3), kale extract (Brassica Oleracea Acephala Leaf Extract), broccoli extract (Brassica Oleracea Italica Extract), vitamin C derivative (Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate), chrysin (a flavonoid present in lots of plant), xanthophyll (lutein), Physalis Pubescens fruit juice. The juice of this fruit contains minerals (potasium, phosphorus, zinc boron), polyphenol and carotenoids. This ingredient could be an antioxidant, but I found no research on it. Tocopheryl Acetate and tocopherol (vitamin E), pissum sativum (pea extract), 

Anti-aging peptides

Matrixyl 3000 (Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1) may stimulate synthesis of collagen, Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7 may reduce inflammation, Palmitoyl Hexapeptide-12

 Phytosphingosine (a precursor of ceramids)

Anti-inflammatory

Stearyl Glycyrrhetinate (derived from licorice), 

This formula is brilliant because it combines the power of retinol with excellent emollients. I also suspect that Drunk Elephant increased the ratio of omega 6 (acid linoleic) to make suitable for acne prone skin.  

To know more about this product and how to use it watch my video.

Where to get it

https://www.cultbeauty.co.uk/drunk-elephant-a-passioni-retinol-cream.html

Thank you for reading me. 

A bientôt, 

Cyrille 

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