Paula’s Choice Ceramide-enriched firming moisturizer

I should have reviewed those two babies a long time ago. If you are looking for an outstanding anti-aging moisturizer that has skin barrier support this is the one. Those two formulas are insanely well done.

For once, I’m not going to break done this formula into emollients and humectants but in actives.

Vitamin C

I have already made a post on vitamin C (here). It is a wonderful antioxidant that brightens the skin tone and reverses some of the effects of photoaging. The most potent form is L-ascorbic acid. Unfortunately, this form is unstable and hard to formulate hence the numbers of derivatives. Unfortunately, the derivatives are less studied and their effect on the skin is more controversial which is why I prefer to use a combination of derivatives rather than putting everything on one molecule.

This moisturizer uses 4 different derivatives of vitamin C: Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate, Ascorbyl Glucoside, Glyceryl Ascorbate, and Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate! You don’t pay for a basic vitamin C serum for sure.

Retinol

Shall I still introduce retinol? I have already written and talked a lot about retinol. In over the counter skincare, retinol is the only molecule with a compelling amount of clinical data to demonstrate it’s anti-aging properties. Retinol is the same as vitamin A. This moisturizer contains 0.1% it is a low strength retinol product. Yet, it is still potent and efficient.

Pairing vitamin C derivatives with retinol is simply genius.

Ceramides

Ceramides are one of the key lipids in our skin barrier with cholesterol and free fatty acids. They constitute 40-50% of the lipids of the skin followed by cholesterol (20-25%) and free fatty acids (10-15%). The synthesis of those lipids is pH-dependent. So don’t use soap! The ceramics family is complex there are at least 8 different types of ceramides. In dry skin and aged skin ceramides deficiency was observed.

Paula’s Choice Clinical Enriched-firming moisturizer contains 5 different ceramides (ceramide NP, Ceramide NS, Ceramide AP, Ceramide EOP, Ceramide EOS) with cholesterol and ceramides precursors (sphingosines). It is challenging to do it better. I love that the ceramides mimic own skin barrier.

Why is it an incredible formula?

Retinol and vitamin C can weaken the skin barrier especially when you start to use them. Also aged skin is deficient in ceramides. This formula combines state of the art anti-aging ingredients blended with skin supportive ingredients.

Paula’s Choice Ceramide-enriched Eye cream

The formula is fairly similar but contains less vitamin C derivatives. If you are worried about the eye area start with the Ceramide-enriched Eye cream and then transition with the face cream. I have not problem usinf the face cream on my eye contour.

Textures

Both textures are identical. There are silky and a little goes a long way. It is moisturizing but not that much. I like to add another simple moisturizer on top. Be aware that it has a strong vitamin C smell.