I’m currently in Virginia Beach at my friend house. I took the opportunity to order the new Krave beauty serum Great Barrier relief.
Krave beauty sells this serum as “a skin-soothing serum that restores your damaged skin barrier while evening out your complexion.” This serum is an oil-based serum.
This serum features an interesting oil that is not often found in skincare the Tamanu oil.
Tamanu oil
Tamanu oil or Calophyllum inophyllum oil is extracted from the nuts of the Tamanu tree. The name “tamanu” is originated from French Polynesia. This oil is traditionally used for its healing properties, and it has some scientific data indicated it’s healing properties.
Tamanu oil has a classical fatty acid composition with an equal part of oleic acid and linoleic acid (from 25% to 40%). Remember, that a higher oleic acid proportion is thought to increase acne. What makes this oil unique is the resinous parts of the oil (close to 20%).
It has been shown that Tamanu oil exhibits antibacterial and antifungal activities, especially against Propionibacterium acnes (the bacteria involved in acne). In vitro experiments also indicated the healing properties of this oil. There is one paper claiming the healing properties of this oil in clinical use in French.
Of course, the clinical and in vivo data are lacking, but the scientific data does correlate with the traditional use making it an interesting ingredient to use.
Two other oils are also in this formula
Safflower oil (Carthamus Tinctorius Seed Oil) and Rosehip seed oil (Rosa canina fruit oil)
Both oils are well-known emollients and contain a high ratio of linolenic acid. The rationale of Krave Beauty was to increase to linoleic acid concentration to make the serum compatible with acne prone skin.
In addition to the oils Krave beauty has included powerhouse emollients:
Squalane, Caprylic/capric triglycerides, glycine soja sterols, and ceramide NP
Humectants
Even though this serum is oil based and it does contain excellent humectants which in my book is wonderful.
Glycerin, butylene glycol, sodium hyaluronate, serine, acetyl glutamine, glycine, saccharide isomerate, urea.
Brightening ingredients
Niacinamide, acetyl glutamine. Niacinamide is a fantastic ingredient that
Skin soothing ingredients
Oat extract and niacinamide add to the soothing properties of the Tamanu oil.
The texture
This serum has a texture similar to light milk. It is pleasant to use and feels lightweight for an oil-based serum.
My conclusion
I like this serum, I consider it as a moisturizer booster. I find it helpful to layer it under my moisturizer when I am in a dryer environment. If you have oily skin, it is a perfect product to replace your moisturizer. I cannot comment on the healing properties of this serum as there are not sufficient scientific data, but the in vitro results and the traditional uses of Tamanu oil support this claim. My skin was irritated due to the retinol, and I find this serum soothing and none irritant. If you are allergic to skincare ingredients, do a patch test before using it. It is always possible to have an allergic reaction. The formula is very well done and each ingredient serves a purpose.
If you want more details about it watch me talk about it.
Thank you for your time.
A bientôt,
Cyrille
