I am always on the hunt to discover new sunscreens because it is important for me to give you options to help you find the best one. When I choose a sunscreen I always start to look at the SPF and the UVAPF (UVA Protection Factor) and then the sunscreen filters. I have made an article and a video explaining why I don’t recommend sunscreens under SPF50+. Sunscreens filters are very important because they give you insurance about the coverage of the UV spectrum and it can help you to discard certain formulation if you are allergic or get irritated by some filters.
Ultrasun
Ultrasun is a Switzerland brand that made sunscreens. The filters they use are the state of the art and they avoided Octocrylene and Octinoxate. Their formulae are fragrance and irritant free making them compatible for sensitive skin
In this post, I will review:
-The Ultrasun Face (Moisturising anti-ageing sun protection),
-The Face Tinted (Ivory, Tinted moisturizing anti-aging sun protection) and –
-The Face fluid (Brightening anti-spot and anti-pollution).
They all use the exact filters and the same antioxidants. Therefore, the formula breakdown is similar to all of them. I will only high light the differences.
Those 3 sunscreens are SPF50+ PA++++ and are EU sunscreens. Therefore the UVAPF is 20 (PPD) or above. On the packaging, it is claimed that 95% of the UVAs are filtered. I imagine that the UVAPF is around 30 for the 3 of them. Those 3 bad boys fall into my « hardcore » sunscreen category, so when you will be exposed to a lot sun (click here to know more).
Filters
-Tinosorb M (Methylene Bis-Benzotriazolyl Tetramethylbutylphenol): it is the filter that has the broadest absorption, it evens absorbs in the blue light range!
-Uvinul T150: Ethylhexyl Triazone an outstanding UVB filters. Even at low concentration, it absorbs a lot of UVB. It has a high affinity with the skin.
-Titanium Dioxide (Nano) a mineral filter that protects against UVB and UVAII
Tinosorb S (Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazine): a goal standard filter that protects against UVB, UVA II and I.
Uvinul A plus (Diethylamino Hydroxybenzoyl Hexyl Benzoate): an outstanding UVA I filters. It also absorbs UVAII b but less efficiently.
Octyl salicylate (Ethylhexyl Salicylate): an organic filter that protects against UVB
All those filters are photo-stable and most likely compatible with the most sensitive skin to organic filters. What I love about this combination is that all the UV spectrum is covered.
Antioxidants
One of the detrimental effects of the sun is too create free radical that scavenge skin cells. Antioxidants are can help our cells to prevent more damage. It is not demonstrated that topical antioxidants work but it is always nice to have them.
Those sunscreens have 2 forms of vitamin E, vitamin c (Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate), Ectoin, grape seed extract (Vitis Vinifera Seed Extract) and Ubiquinone.
Anti-acne ingredients
Sunscreens are notorious to breakout certain persons (me included). None of the three have cause be pimples. The Face fluid has Zinc PCA. It is a good ingredient is you suffer from acne. Don’t
Texture and application
The Face SP50+:
Ultrasun describes it as a gel, it is closer to light milk in my opinion. It is an okay texture, that doesn’t blend super easily. You need a little bit of time to have an even application. Nothing terrible though. The finish is slightly dewy, a bit tacky and you feel that you have something on. It has a white cast but nothing major. You can put makeup one but it is not optimal. This one is
Face tintedSP50+:
I would have thought the texture is similar to the Face but it is not. The texture is a bit heavier than the Face and creamier. It also does not blend nicely and the pigments set into the pores and the fine lines. I dislike the application. Also, the color is very pale and therefore doesn’t correct the white cast. I find the Face texture much better in comparison. I don’t recommend this one.
The Face fluidSP50+:
The texture is similar to the Face but more fluid. It is the best of the 3. It blends and leaves the skin good looking with a minimal white cast. If you put powder on top, it gives a blurring effect. It is my favorite one and the one that I recommend the most.
My Conclusions
The Ultrasun sunscreens are designed to provide the highest protection possible suitable for sensitive skin. The filters are the best available in the market, there are very photo-stable and stay a very long time on the skin. 12 hours after a single application I still had an even layer on my face. That doesn’t mean you don’t lose protection but you still have some decent protection on. I think the level of UVAPF is very high also. Likely corresponding to a PPD of 30 or higher but I can’t tell for sure. Unfortunately, to have this level of protection against UVB and UVA the texture is less elegant than other sunscreens still, the Face fluid is impressive.
I recommend the Face Fluid and the Face. Those sunscreens are ideal when you are exposed to a lot of
Thank you for your time.
A bientôt,
Cyrille
