Today’s mark my first collaboration! I am very happy to tell you that Rafael and I decided to review at the same time the Hyalu B5 line from La Roche Posay. His reviews are always brilliant, scientifically accurate and delightful to read. If you are not subscribed already go and hit the subscribe button.
His Instagram (here) and his blog (here).
La Roche Posay Hyalu B5 line is based on hyaluronic acid and is meant to plum the look of skin, smooth fine lines and replenish the skin with moisture.
The line is composed of 3 products a serum, a face cream, and an eye cream. The star ingredient is the famous hyaluronic acid.
Hyaluronic acid
Hyaluronic acid is a polymer made from repeated subunit. A perfect analogy is a pearl necklace. The bigger the hyaluronic acid is, the more it retains water. Interestingly, this ingredient is found in the dermis and epidermis. Hyaluronic acid in the dermis forms a gel (named matrix extracellular) where collagen and elastin are present. The hyaluronic acid subunit (= the pearl) is a sugar.
In a nutshell, a well-formulated hyaluronic acid will attract water in your dead skin layer. It’s not for nothing that this ingredient is so praised. It is one of the best humectant. The all issue with it is to have a proper hyaluronic acid at a suitable concentration. Hence, all hyaluronic acid-based products do not perform equally.
Hyalu B5 serum
It comes in a pipet package. The pipet is not optimal because it leaks, be cautious to avoid a mess.
The formula is simple with a short list of ingredients contrary to my beloved Missha Night repair ampoule (click me for the review). Sometimes, simple and few ingredients are the way to go when your skin barrier is irritated.
6 Humectants
Glycerin, propylene glycol, panthenol (aka pro vitamin B5), high molecular weight hyaluronic acid (big), small molecular weight hyaluronic acid (small) and butylene glycol.
All those humectants are non-irritant and compatible with skin biology.
Anti-inflammatory ingredient
Madecassoside is one of the active ingredients extracted from the notorious Centella Asiatica plant. It has excellent anti-inflammatory properties. This ingredient is gold and is potentialized when formulated with other extracts from Centella Asiatica such as Asiaticoside.
Antioxidants
Madecassoside and tocopherol (vitamin E).
What I dislike about this serum
It contains ethanol in the third position of the list of ingredients. I have asked La Roche Posay what the concentration of ethanol in this formula is, and it is in between 5 and 10%. You can smell and feel the ethanol. Ethanol is a poison to cells. All arguments of the pro-ethanol will tell you that skincare is applied on a layer of dead skins and that ethanol evaporates quickly. My point of view is always the same if your skin barrier is damaged there is still a chance that ethanol reached the deeper layers of your skin. Also, a serum is meant to be applied after cleansing your face when your skin is the most venerable. There is plenty of option for a moisturizing serum why take a risk? It did sting a little my skin upon application. I am using 1% retinol and AHA on my skincare routine making my skin more sensitive. If you want to know more about AHA, read my blog post (click me).
It has perfume. I always prefer a safer option, especially for a serum. Fragrance-free is always better. I also dislike this fragrance.
The texture is nice and glides beautifully on the skin, and it is not tacky.
It is a shame because the Hyalu B5 serum does infuse your skin with moisture. If La Roche Posay removes alcohol, I will go for it.
Hyalu B5 hyaluronic acid cream
It is a cream that comes in a nice squeezy tube with a long and fine applicator. I find the packaging pleasant, elegant and convenient to use.
The formula
Six humectants
Glycerin, propylene glycol, propanediol, panthenol, high molecular weight hyaluronic acid (big), small molecular weight hyaluronic acid (small). Similar to the serum the humectants are fabulous. Using hyaluronic acid along with panthenol you cannot go wrong.
Three emollients (and occlusives)
Dimethicone, hydrogenated polyisobutene, and synthetic wax. The emollients are there to seal in the precious water. In this formula, they are simple but effective. They could have used plants oils that offer more lipid complexity. Those emollients are targetted for sensitive skin.
Antioxidants
Tocopherol vitamin E.
Anti-aging ingredients (aka cell-communicated ingredients)
Pro Xylane (hydroxypropyl tetrahydropyrantriol) is an ingredient developed by L’Oreal. It is derived from a sugar (Xylose) and boosts the synthesis of key molecules of the dermis. There are not a lot of studies to back up the claims. Adenosine is a powerful anti-aging ingredient. It is nice to have those ingredients but not sufficient.
The texture is in between a gel and cream and pleasant to apply. It has an “expensive” feel to it.
Like in the serum, the cream contains ethanol and perfume.
In my opinion, it is an okay cream that I won’t recommend because of the ethanol and also because I know better options for the same price so why bother?
I find it bizarre that La Roche Posay has purposely selected “simple” ingredients tailored for sensitive skin and yet used alcohol and perfume. It is nonsense.
Hyalu B5 eye cream
Hyalu B5 eye is a rich cream with a nice spreadable texture. The texture is a cross between a cream and a balm. It comes in a squeezy tube with a long fine applicator. Again, a refine, elegant and convenient packaging.
The formula
Six humectants
Glycerin, panthenol, propylene glycol, high molecular weight hyaluronic acid (big), small molecular weight hyaluronic acid (small), amino acids. Similar to the serum and the cream the humectants are good.
Three emollients (and occlusives).
Shea butter, dimethicone, apricot kernel oil, pentaerythrityl tetraethyl hexanoate, Cera Alba, and more. This eye cream includes lots of emollients and occlusives. This combination is perfect for the eye area. Shea butter is the star in the emollients department and comes in the third position in the list ingredients.
Two anti-aging ingredients (aka cell-communicated ingredients)
Pro Xylane and calmosensine (acetyl dipeptide-1 cetyl ester). Calmosensine is supposed to relax the muscle.
This eye cream is sold as an anti-aging product but is not. However, it is an excellent balm cream for the eye. It is a rich cream perfect to preserve the delicate eye area. It contains pigments and powder to provide a mat finish. This eye cream works under makeup. It does not contain ethanol and perfume, so I am a happy camper. The only downside is when you used the Hyalu B5 serum under it. It forms tiny peels. I recommend this eye cream as it is a good moisturizing eye balm.
My conclusions on the Hyalu B5 line
I am not impressed by this line. I would not recommend those products and put them in my skincare kit (for my skincare consultations) mainly because of the ethanol. It did bother my skin while I was using retinol and AHA. The eye cream is a good product though.
If you want to hear me talk about it, watch me 🙂
Thank you for reading me.
A bientôt,
Cyrille
Wonderful information.
I’ve used the serum twice and my face now is covered with acne, whereas I had clear skin before use. I’ve used LRP hyalu products before with great results, so I’m puzzled. And itchy.
🙁
Thank you, I would suggest stopping using it. They are plenty of better options in the market! It is possible you have developed a sensitivity to the perfume that is amplified by the alcohol.