I am all about explaining how products are formulated and how actives influence the skin but sometimes you want to know how to fix an issue. For today’s post and video, I share with an at-home « hardcore routine » to treat hyperpigmentation.
Disclaimer
Hyperpigmentation (brown spots, melasma, sunspots…) is extremely hard to treat at home and required strong treatments. This routine will irritate the skin, therefore, it is important that you carefully followed it and be patient. I’ve purposely chosen products fragrance and irritant-free for this routine. The only products with perfumes or essential oils are sunscreens. Finding excellent sun protection with elegant wear is tough and requires compromise.
Sun protection
Yes, here I am again talking about sunscreen. Hyperpigmentation is extremely sensitive to UV irradiation. Finding the « perfect » protection for you is key. Whatever your skin color you need an SPF50+ with high UVA protection. Melanin deposit (aka brown spots) is particularly sensitive to UVA. If you are based in the United States with fair skin I suggest investing in European or Japanese sunscreens. I have classified my sunscreen recommendation according to skin phototypes.
Actives
This routine is based on 3 different actives: 1% retinol, tranexamic acid and vitamin C (3 different forms). Vitamin C is a beautiful antioxidant and excellent skin brightener. To tackle dark spots I have opted for 3 forms of vitamin C: L-ascorbic acid, Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate, and Ethylated L-ascorbic acid.
The routine part 1 (2 months)
The routine is in two parts. The first part focused on building a tolerance to retinol. It would be a bad idea to combine all the actives from scratch. It will provoke too many irritations.
AM
1 A quick rinse with water
2 Hydrating toner
3: Hada Labo Premium Shirojyun cream
4: Moisturizer if needed (watch my videos for recommendations)
5: Sunscreen
PM
1: Double cleansing
2: Hydrating toner
3: 1% Retinol pure or diluted with the moisturizer
4: Hada Labo Premium Shirojyun cream
5: Moisturizer if needed
The routine part 2 (4 months)
When your skin tolerates retinol it is time to introduce the other actives.
AM
1 A quick rinse with water
2 Hydrating toner
3: By Wishtrend Pure vitamin C
3: Hada Labo Premium Shirojyun cream mix with 3 drops of The Ordinary Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate solution
4: Moisturizer if needed
5: Sunscreen
PM
1: Double cleansing
2: Hydrating toner
3: 1% Retinol pure or diluted with the moisturizer
4: Hada Labo Premium Shirojyun cream mix with 3 drops of The Ordinary Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate solution and NIOD Ethylated L-ascorbic acid (if pigmentation is resistant)
5: Moisturizer if needed
The key to success
There are 3 important factors to success with this routine. The first one is to not give up on retinol. For some skin types, it is harder to build a tolerance to retinol. I have a series on retinol and videos with my mum where I talk about it. The second crucial point is to be consistent and patient. Don’t expect amazing results from scratch. The third point is UV protection. Don’t even think of getting a tan. Be diligent with your sunscreen, wear a big hat and have huge sunglasses. This routine lasts 6 months. During this period don’t introduce new products to avoid any unnecessary irritation.
Video
Watch my video where I share important tips.
Recommendations
☀️Sunscreens
Anessa Whitening UV gel SPF50+ PA++++⎪https://amzn.to/2Zc4cPC
Klairs Soft Airy UV essence SPF50+ PA++++⎪https://www.wishtrend.com
Anessa Perfect UV sunscreen milk SPF50+ PA++++⎪https://amzn.to/31wMmJ3
Anessa Perfect UV sunscreen mild milk SPF50+ PA++++⎪https://amzn.to/2KDCVlf
Ultrasun fluid SPF50+ PA++++⎪https://amzn.to/2N24gPy
Avene Fluid SPF50+⎪https://amzn.to/2YUAwLM
Avene B-protect SPF50+ ⎪https://amzn.to/2Mp4VeK
💦Hydrating toner / essence
Hada Labo premium Lotion ⎪https://amzn.to/2Zc4upG
Klairs Supple preparation Unscented ⎪https://amzn.to/2ZbAWwH
💪Retinol
The Ordinary retinol 1% ⎪theordinary.com
🧴Moisturizers
Elta MD Renewal complex barrier cream ⎪https://amzn.to/2zbIWip
Hada Labo Premium Shirojyun cream ⎪http://www.kirei-station.com/product/2759
COSRX ultimate nourishing rice overnight spa mask⎪https://amzn.to/2KFvjyz
Paula’s choice Omega complex moisturizer ⎪https://amzn.to/2KEkPQe
🍊 Vitamin C
By Wishtrend Pure Vitamin C 21.5% ⎪https://amzn.to/2HeZxGF
The Ordinary Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate solution ⎪theordinary.com
NIOD Ethylated L-ascorbic acid ⎪niod.com
