I'm from Ginseng Eye cream - Cyrille Laurent

It’s been a long time since I have done a proper review. Today’s I review the new I’m from Ginseng Eye cream. I’m from is a brand based on a high concentration of « natural ingredients ». I am not a big fan of brands stamping « Natural » everywhere making people believe that it is safe to use. Mother Nature is full of natural irritants and poisons.

This eye cream features 3 ginseng extracts. Red ginseng has been used as a medicinal plant for a long time in Korea and there are some interesting studies to show that ginseng could be interesting for the skin. I have breakdown the formula in different categories.

Emollients

The emollients are lovely: Caprylic/Capric Triglycerides, Jojoba Seed Oil, Shea Butter, Cetearyl Alcohol Beeswax… I find it important to have an emollient-rich cream for the eye contour.

Humectants

Butylene Glycol, Glycerin, Methylpropanediol, hyaluronic acid (3 forms), Soluble Collagen. The eye area is prone to dehydration and good humectants with good emollients are always the best. The humectants are classic but efficient.

Antioxidants

This eye cream contains 3.65% of ginseng fermented ginseng from 6 years. This is a sort of empty promise because I cannot tell which extracts where used and what are their initial concentration. The ginseng extract mention in the INCI (the ingredient lits) are

Ginseng

Red Ginseng Extract, Wood-cultivated Ginseng Extract, and Panax Ginseng. Are they all blended to make the essence? Is the essence fermented? I have no idea.

Most studies performed on ginseng were done as a food supplement. Little is known as a skincare ingredient.

The bioactive in ginseng are ginsenosides (more than 150) several studies reports anti-inflammatory effects but there were mostly done in mice model: (reduce itching sensation, less infiltration by immune cells… done with mouse model though). They are some reports that ginseng increases hyaluronic acid (on human keratinocyte cell line) and collagen synthesis (on human fibroblast cell line). One paper (DOI: 10.1089/jmf.2012.2187) has analyzed fermented red ginseng with a lactobacillus (a bacteria used to make yogurt). Is the ginseng essence fermented I don’t know?

Fermented ingredients are a staple in K beauty products despite the lack of scientific publications which doesn’t mean they are not useful. Fermentation is a metabolic process that degrades sugar (in general). In skincare different strains of bacteria and yeasts can be used. The fermentation transforms an ingredient into another one by breaking down the molecule into smaller ones.

The rationale behind using fermented ginseng over ginseng is that fermented ginseng has more benefits for the skin. This is true for digested ginseng. Our gut contains many bacteria that break down the ginseng releasing different metabolites of ginsenosides. Fermented the ginseng does the same: it increases the « good » metabolites, different sugars, polyphenols, and flavonoid.

There are no reports that ginseng extracts are irritating but you can still be allergic to it. It is an interesting ingredient with nice studies on animal studies and in vitro (human cell line). There is no in vivo data. So it is hard to judge.

Soothing ingredients

Ginseng, ginkgo Biloba Leaf Extract (could act as an antioxidant)

Angelica Gigas Root Extract, Licorice, Allantoin. It’s always nice to have several anti-inflammatory ingredients.

Antiaging

Ginseng (maybe), adenosine

Notorious allergen

Perfume, maybe the ginseng and other plant extracts.

The texture

The texture is lightweight and yet very moisturizing. I love it.

My conclusions

The formula is interesting and very moisturizing. It smooths my eyes despite the lightweight texture. Ginseng extract is an interesting ingredient that lacks scientific evidence on human. This is not a stable active for sure. I wish I’m from would have not included the perfume. If you don’t have sensitive skin give it a try.