NIOD is part of DECIEM. It is an interesting brand that is outside of the box and I like some of their products. I will breakdown the formula of the new NIOD Copper Amino isolate Lipid 1%. This formula is so different from what we usually found in the market.
The new NIOD Copper amino isolate lipid use a modified version of the famous copper peptides that is made of 3 amino acids: Glycine (G), Histidine (H) and Lysine (K) coupled to copper (Cu) aka GHK-Cu. This peptide naturally occurs in our blood, saliva and decrease while we age. At 60 years old we have twice less copper peptide in the blood than at 20. This peptide has a strong affinity for copper hence the complex. It has been discovered in 1973 by Loren Pickard and has been well studied.
There are nice studies about the healing, anti-inflammatory, and potential anti-aging properties of GHK-Cu peptides done in different models: animals and cell lines mainly. There are also evidences that this peptide increases the synthesis of collagen in human done on fibroblast and us. Fibroblasts are the cells that make our hyaluronic acid, collagen, elastin and so on in the dermis. But when you use a serum you apply on top of the skin, not on the dermis… Thankfully, we have 4 in vivo study that seems to confirm the retinoic (aka tretinoin) like effect on the skin. It is a very promising ingredient.
NIOD has used a modified version of this peptide were a palmitoyl group was attached. The idea is to make the copper peptide more penetrable in the skin. It is named Palmitoyl tripeptide-1-Cu or pal-GH-Cu. Palmitoyl tripeptide-1 without the copper is part of the Matrixyl 3000 that supposedly boosts collagen production. In this cream, it is coupled to Copper. I have tried to find scientific papers on this new peptide carrier but I’ve found none. Maybe it is exclusive to NIOD. Interestingly, this peptide is a hybrid between the Matrixyl 3000 complex and the GHK-Cu peptides.
The rest of the formula is also interesting.
Squalane, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride (free fatty acids), glycolipids (that could act as an emulsifying).
Squalane and free fatty acids are both excellent and naturally occurring in the skin barrier. Glycolipids are lipids that are bound to sugar they can act as emulsifiers.
Glycerin, Hydrogenated Starch Hydrolysate, Propanediol.
Glycerin is the gold standard humectant that is papered by corn sugars aka starch.
Copper peptide, Hydroxymethoxyphenyl Propylmethylmethoxybenzofuran (or Sym3D), Vetiveria Zizanoides Root Extract (good be antioxidant).
The start of the show is obviously the copper peptides I would have paired it with retinol.
Aphanizomenon Flos-aquae Extract. It is a cyanobacteria or blue-green algae. It is the first life form found on planet earth. Cyanobacterias are thought to be the first organism to have produced the oxygen. These microalgae are full of lipids, proteins, and minerals and might be anti-inflammatory and antioxidant.
This formula is very unique and different from your typical cream. It is also very pricey $90 for 15ml (0.5Fl.oz). I think the price point comes from 1% of palmitoyl GHK-Cu. I have never seen it in a formula. I would expect this formula to be very moisturizing and I love that the primary lipids are squalane and free fatty acid. It is an expensive product that is worth a try if you are a skincare nerd. Copper peptides are the perfect addition to a retinoid as they have the most scientific evidence compares to other peptides.
I tell you more about what I think about it in my video.
I have only added the most relevant articles.
Thank you for your time.