Acne and anti-aging in your 30’s

I wanted to dedicate a post and a video about acne in the ’30s because it is not often talked about. When you pass the bar of 30 you want to tackle the first signs of aging and keep your acne at bay.

Let me start by telling you that I am a blogger and a scientific doctor but not a certified board dermatologist. Even if I were I would never be able to diagnose you without consultation.
Far too often, I have notice miss diagnose, the latest trend being fungal acne. It seems that everybody has it. No blogger or online dermatologist will replace a certified board dermatologist.
This being said I know the struggle of acne I have it since my teenage years and I think I will still be acne-prone for a very long time. Remember that acne is a disease of pores that can lead to scarring. If you are at risk go straight away to a dermatologist.

The road to acceptance

Acne is a disease of the pores that sometimes last and will burst from time to time without apparent reasons. I tend to break out once or twice per week without knowing why.
Try not to make hasty conclusions about what you have eaten and habits… Acne is a disease that can be increased by habits, especially bad skincare habits, and hormones for the rest we are in the unknown. Concerning food, there is not a clear correlation even though consumption of dairy seems to emphasize acne… So don’t punish yourself thinking you are doing something wrong. You can try to avoid dairies to see if it helps for at least a month and then reintroduce them to see if there is a difference.
Try to accept that it’s your skin type and despite what you do you will still breakouts. It took me years to accept that and stop wanting to eradicate the pimples on my face but let them heal and begone.

Acne and anti-aging

Nobodies are talking about it but you have been struggling with acne for more than a decade it often results in faster aging in my opinion. Far too often the skin was abused by years of harsh cleansers, chronicle dehydration, harsh dermatologist treatments without proper skincare support… Mild to moderate acne can be kept under control and associated with state of the art anti-aging actives.

First and foremost nailed the skincare fundamentals: double cleanse, exfoliate, moisturize, and protect yourself from the sun.

I am a huge believer in double cleansing at night time. Good oil or balm lift everything into the oil phase and allows to use a gentle acidic water-based cleanser. In the AM, I generally do not recommend to use any cleanser unless you absolutely need it.

Exfoliate will be the game changer for acne management and I recommend to use azelaic acid. It is such a multi-tasking acid that is gentle and at the same time anti-inflammatory. Azelaic acid works well with retinoids.

Moisturize the hell out of you. Far too often acne-prone are afraid of moisturizers, please don’t. Lots of moisturizers are perfect for acne-prone so don’t worry about it and slather your face with it, I have recommendations at the end of this post.

The routine

The best anti-aging actives are retinoids and sunscreens. Retinoids are a big family. The best, in over the counter skincare, is retinol but it has its con. Retinol can be irritated and harder to tolerate acids. When you struggle with acne you need your azelaic acid. The best way is too start slowly and build your way up into two-phase:

Phase 1 (at least 4 months)
AM:
1 A gentle rinse with water
2 Hydrating toner + serum (if needed)
3 Moisturizer
4 sunscreen

PM
1 double cleansing
2 Hydrating toner + serum (if needed)
3 Retinoids every night or twice a week azelaic acid
4 Moisturizer

Phase 2
AM:
1 A gentle rinse with water
2 Hydrating toner + azelaic acid 3 to every morning
3 Moisturizer
4 sunscreen

PM
1 Double cleansing
2 Hydrating toner + serum (if needed)
3 Retinoids every night
4 Moisturizer

I have listed all the recommended products at the end of this post and I talked about them in my videos in detail. The choice of product is very important. Stick to phase 1 at least for a month if your skin feels fine transition to phase two. I recommend the retinoid serum for Dr. Sam Bunting in conjunction with Azelaic Acid. In phase 2, you can add half a pump (Paula’s Choice) or 3 drops of 1% retinol (The Ordinary) to increase the anti-aging effects but go slowly.

Check my video to know more and have more details.

Products I recommend for this routine

💧 Toners  

💦 Serums  

💧🧴 Moisturizerrs

🌻🧽 Oil-based cleanser 

💧 🧽 Water-based cleanser 

🥕 Retinoid 

🍋 Acids 

Thank you for your time.
Cyrille

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