I have already talked about acids in skincare (here). If I quickly summarize, acids increase the turn over of the dead skin cells. This simple fact has tremendous benefits for the skin. It evens the skin tone, it smooth the texture, it makes hydrating and moisturizing more efficient, it is anti-aging (hi proliferation), and it unclogged pores aka less acne.
Acne is a disease of the pores. Pores are « deep » in the skin. We don’t understand what really triggers acne but we know factors that contribute to it. The clogging of pores is one of them. When a pore is clogged by dead skin cells and lipids it blocks the canal of the pore making a whitehead or a blackhead. The trending name is sebaceous filament. The blocking of the pore can results in a pimple due to the excessive proliferation of bacteria (Cutibacterium acnes previously named Propionibacterium acnes).
The use of a correct blend of acids can help to unclog pores resulting in less acne. In over the counter skincare, there is no miracle treatment that will eradicate your acne but it can help. But if you have severe acne and scars do not seek advice from any blogger myself included go straight away to a dermatologist. Acne scars are difficult to treat by professional and very expensive. Remember that acne is a disease and requires professional care. If you have mild to moderate acne with no risk of scarring you can diminish the symptoms using acids.
For today’s post, I will discuss two different ways of using acid to treat acne at home
1 Glycolic and salicylic acid
That is what I call the gold standard and easiest way to do it. Glycolic acid is the smallest of AHA (alpha hydroxy acid). It is a potent acid that will increase the shedding of the top layer of the skin. The secret is to combine it with salicylic acid a BHA (beta hydroxy acid). Salicylic acid is soluble in the sebum, therefore, it will exfoliate the inner part of the pores and decrease the inflammation.
2 Azelaic and salicylic acid
This combo is a killer one and probably my favorite. Azelaic acid is an amazing acid. In addition to work as an AHA, it has anti-inflammatory and anti-redness properties. Why is it not popular I have no idea. My secret to making it more efficient is to combine it with salicylic acid.
The key to success
Before ordering your acids, you have to nail your skincare fundamentals (here). Have a proper cleansing, moisturizing, and sunscreen routine. When you have acne your skin is in a constant state of inflammation so make sure you use fragrance-free and essential oils-free skincare. I also tend to favor simple formula over a long list with unknown ingredients that can spark more inflammation. My last advice is to not be afraid of moisturizers, especially at night.
Check my videos to know how to incorporate acids into your routine and more recommendations.
Thank you for your time.